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How do you paint Sandstone?

Thanks for all the info. Your videos are super helpful!!!

Awesome tutorial video. Very concise and highly informative (seen through my novice lens) :) ! I learned a lot watching your video.

Or-thah-gah-null

For some reason, when I try to slice this, it reverts to my normal slicer settings instead of the post-processing script for the tower

Thanks!

Did Flush into objects' infill/support not exist yet? It is under the others tab and can reduce the flush tower size and do something useful with the material.

Amazing ❤ I have a question! What if I mix a drop of colour into the gloss varnish and I apply it? Thank you ❤

mine shoots off to the left corner and show dimension error. When I go 1000 mm is cuts off part of the image idk what going on

Airbrush thinner, cleaner, and flow improvers are all roughly ~10% 2-butoxyethanol (usually sold as Glycol Ether EB or Butyl Cellosolve) and distilled water. Flow improver probably has the slightest wiff (<1%) of glycerin or propylene glycol as the retarder since they don't include it on the MSDS / SDS, which should rule out ethylene glycol. If you are doing a lot of painting, you can make your own thinner / cleaner directly. A $30 1L bottle of Butyl Cellosolve effectively makes 50x 200 mL bottles of thinner. Honestly, I just wish cellosolve was available in bottles less than 500-1000 mL.

Hi Chris, having my Bambu Lab A1 only a few weeks & watching you vids I love them, so helpfull & very informative, & you make watching them & learning about BS so easy, many thanks mate...Steve H from the UK

👌👌

Holly crap that was a long video totally worth it

I love this tolerance thing from thingiverse :) I am about to make my own life counter dial for ttrpgs so I need a snug fit.

Thank great video

Hi. My print sticks to the bed and prints well until for some reason it will make a booger somewhere alone the print from a 1/4 to 8 inches above the bed then it knocks the print over because the nozzles catches on it. It's just a cigar cylinder. Any ideas? This video was so helpful. Thanks

Awesome video. I'm taking a break from painting miniatures and will be getting into some Gundam and car model building and painting. I used to use "rattle cans" but the fumes are becoming really strong for me even though I wear a respirator and spray outdoors. I would like to pick up an airbrush, a tool which could help all of my hobby painting interests. When I return to miniatures an airbrush can serve as a priming and base coating tool. Your video was important because spraying acrylics through an airbrush is somewhat safer than spraying enamels and lacquers through a rattle can. My question is, most acrylics are matte. If I spray a car body with a matte color, can I spray it with gloss clear coat to make it shine? Thanks for your time.

Thank you ! Could you please do a tutorial on how to get the exact look with printers that can print with one filament only? how to determine the tolerance between separated pieces to fit perfectly .

Quick question for you. They sell that primer in paint and primer combo in the one can. Can I use that or specifically primer only?

I'm having problems with my Bampu P1S, or Studio, don't know which. Probably user error. Anyway let's take a simple problem. We start with a cube then offset two holes, one on either side and one larger and one smaller and slightly offset with a 1mm wall separating them. This is designed in Fusion 360. When I try to slice it, I get a warning that there are floating areas and I need to enable supports. When I do this, I get supports both underneath the cube as well as in the holes. the supports are very hard to remove, aren't clean and make stryations in the bottom surface of the cube and also change the top of the cube in different weird ways. What's going on and how do I correct this. I'd love to send pics. If I try to slice and print without supports, it doesn't stick to the plate and the print fails. HHHEeeeeLLLLLPpPPPP!!!!

I printed the model and basically everything stuck together, any way to improve tolerances?

Bro why are you over articulating words? You're not talking to 3yo kids

nice mustache

Just buy the whole kit. This is just asking for issues.

im trying to set the infill offset for x and y axis, but it doesnt show up, even when selected from the setting list naither print setting or model setting. 😢

Thank you so much for this video. You are an amazing teacher!

Great video. Many thanks G

I guess i need some serious trouble shooting help. I got "tiny stringing" like you got on your "3mm retraction" all the time. from 4 upwards to beyond 10mm. it doesn´t get much worse, but it doesn´t get any better either. Its always tiny stringing. I printed all 3 preset towers and got stringing ALL THE Time Machine: Anycubic Vyper Nozzle 0.4mm Filament rPLA (recycled PLA from Recycle Fabrik) CURA 5.7.0 Settings: Layer hight 0.2 Print Temp 190 printspeed 80mm/s outer wall speed 45mm/s inner wall speed 100mm/s Top/bottom speed 40mm/s Support speed 80mm/s Travel speed 120mm/s Initial layer speed 40mm/s Z hop speed 10mm/s Number of slower layers 2 Travel: Enable Retraction YES Retract Layer Change YES Retraction distance 10mm -> still stringing Retraction Speed 45mm/s Retraction Retract speed 45mm/s Combing mode Not on Outer Surface Avoid printed parts when traveling YES Avoid Supports when travelling YES Travel avoid distance 0.625mm Z hop when retracted YES Z hop hight 1mm Cooling enabled 100% I´m realy going to get mad!

Is it not possible to do all the purging and tower into another printed item? I'm thinking something basic like a door stop or the like.

The method I have used for years is to simply add some acrylic floor polish to the paint to get to the consistency I need. The acrylic floor polish is almost as thin as water, it's crystal clear, it greatly improves flow and adhesion AND it adds strength to the paint. I use it with cheap craft paints, super thick Liquitex acrylics that come in tubes (that stuff is like toothpaste!) and any other acrylics I've used in the past that needed to be thinned. You can get a cheap floor polish called Quick Shine here in the U.S. at a lot of different places. It costs less than $10 for almost a quart.

Hello, I thought I fixed my clogged nozzle. By this I mean I replaced nozzle with new one and trimmed end of boden tube in hot end. When I put it all back together, I was able to push filament through. Then I went to print and it clogged again. Nothing came out of nozzle, 😮 ugh! 😫 What can I do to fix this?? Please help

Amazing job explaining what a lot of the setting are, and what they do, and what good settings generally are! There are a couple things that I don't think were mentioned, but maybe I missed it. If your filament has moisture in it, or you have the nozzle too hot, retraction and slicer settings will not stop the stringing or defects. Dry your filament and do a temperature tower for your filament before starting on this video.

golden high flow are they thinned enough from the get go? i find it i need to thin them even more

Currently trying this. however, the temp display on my printer is showing 210 for the first section. did i miss something?

Did you know vaporeon

Im having a problem with to much travel for non print moves. It makes sense if there are 2 objects across the bed. But my designs are solid, and nothing is disconnected. I want my slicer to always travel a path that is printing.

How about a video where you can have an open project then add an .svg or other file on top of it. Then join them to make one object for printing. I am trying to have a thin flat surface open in Bambu studios then bring in a .svg logo file to place on top of it to use for display. I have not been successful yet.

Hi...great video. I would have liked to find the exact penguin you used so I could follow the steps...exactly. I found some that were close but there was a charge. The real thing I was looking for is one that had the "stroke" around it. The one I used was a thin black line but, was not separate like in your example. Any chance you could share a link to the file you used? Thanks...tw Later....By the way, I figured it out. I snipped a jpg of your penguin and then converted it to and outline svg, broke it apart and then colored it back. Worked fine....thanks

After this video I got convinced 100% and became a patreon member :D

Thanks!

Perfect definition of a tutorial! Thank you good sir!

The "fat" connector (close to you in the video) has a slot that prevents connecting in the wrong position. The "Flat" connector (away from you in the video) does not have such a slot. What is the correct position to insert it ? it has a blank side and a side with the copper wires. I am assuming copper side pointing outside (right in your video). I thid correct ?

At 4:55 you show us the answer already exists and is there on screen while you complain it isn’t there (ctrl-1 thru -6) 😅 Get a 3Dconnexion knob with the view buttons there and put your other hand to use :)

Ur awesome 👌

Um, how about how to change it WITHOUT destroying the clip, for those of use who got their X1C's with nothing but the new nozzle, not even a new sock?

Wonderfull video and all your other tutorials I see my prints getting better and better, Thanks a lot and keep up the good work!

Ur the best out there ❤

You da man Mr. Peabody. I had to drop your Patreon because Discord is doodoo. I learned --*everything*-- needed to know from you about slicing with Cura and glad you've added Bambu to your repetoire.

I'm still going through your guides but I was wondering if there is a way to change the enter diameter of a item without changing any of the other measurements, i.e. making a cylinder wall thinner or thicker. I a newbie with the Bambu printer, only two weeks old but haven't had time to tinker.

Watching you remove the supports on that makes me so glad I went with SLA/Resin over FDM. What a mess!! Thanks Chris!!